The Walk
Layer Marney Tower, in all its Tudor glory, was the destination of this circular 12-mile walk starting at Kelvedon Station. It was late May, so there was plenty of daylight to enjoy both the spring countryside and the Tudor history which greeted the walker at the furthest reach of the walk.
As can be expected in this part of the world, maximum and minimum elevations - of 73 and 24 metres respectively - were quite modest, leaving sufficient energy to explore Layer Marney Tower as well as its grounds and its interesting church of "St Mary's".
Inworth
From Kelvedon Station, our route follows the River Blackwater southwards to the footbridge over the Kelvedon by-pass. Before the village of Inworth we cross the track bed of the "Crab & Winkle" line which, until 1951, was used to transport the produce from Wilkinson's Jam and Marmalade factory in Tiptree, north to the Great Eastern line at Kelvedon, and before WWII, south to Tolleshunt with its pier on the Blackwater Estuary. We pass Inworth Hall, which is north of down-town Inworth with its 11th century grade I listed church of "All Saints". Then onwards we go past Messing Park and through Pods Wood and Layer Wood. Eventually we reach a gate giving access to the churchyard of "St Mary's" church.
As expected in these parts of Essex, the terrain is flattish and not too demanding; this part of the walk is about six miles.
Inworth Hall
18th Century. Grade II Listed.
Messing Park
Early 18th Century. Grade II* listed.
St. Mary's Church
The church of St Mary the Virgin stands beside Layer Marney Tower, which we shall visit in the next section. Church and Layer Marney tower were both built around 1523, using the same brick. Parts of the church originate from before 1523.
See links
one
&
two.
The red bricks certainly give a Tudor appearance.
The crenelations which often adorn village churches, indicate that these churches, in addition to their religious purpose, also served as a defence against marauding miscreants. In times of need, archers would climb the roof and tower to ward off itinerant marauders, so protecting the church and the nearby community.
The porch of the main entrance has a small statue of the Virgin Mary above the arch.
In the nave we can see the Rood Screen ahead, in front of the altar.
On the wall to the left of the Rood Screen
is a painting of St Cristopher carrying the infant Christ across a river.
Tomb of Henry, the 1st Lord Marney, 1457-1523.
Black Marble recumbent effigy. Hands clasped in prayer.
Hatchment, hatchment on the wall.
Oh, your story does enthral!
"Spes Alit"
Translation: "Hope Nourishes" or "Hope sustains".
For one Nicholas Corsellis, of Lincolns Inn, who died in 1761.
Hatchment, hatchment on the wall.
Oh, your story does enthral!
"Non est mortale quod opto".
Translation: "What I choose is not mortal".
Transliteration: "I seek nothing that is mortal".
For Matthew Corsellis, of Layer Marney Towers, who died without issue, 14 December 1855.
This wall painting of St Christopher carrying the Christ child across a river is probably from the 15th century, so actually predating the main church.
Exactly how this painting was incorporated into the newer church is not clear!
The name "Christopher" is from the Greek
"χριστοφορος",
a contraction of the words:
"φορος" (Bearer) and "χριστου" (of Christ).
Layer Marney Tower
Work on the Layer Marney Tower (actually two joined towers), and its associated buildings and grounds as well as St Mary's Church, started in 1520. The Tower - 80 ft tall - is the tallest example of a Tudor gatehouse; it is distinguished by its brick and terracotta construction. It was begun by Henry, 1st Lord Marney, who died in 1523. Henry, 1st Lord Marney, was Henry VIII's Lord Privy Seal and, indeed, a close friend of the said monarch. Work on the Tower was continued by his son, who died without issue only two years later. Plans for a palace, for which the Tower was to have been an imposing entrance, were never realized.
Subsequently, Layer Marney Tower and grounds had a number of owners, and suffered damage in the 1884 Colchester Earthquake. Luckily, the building attracted a donor who was willing and financially able to repair the damage, thus allowing the building to survive for the appreciation of future generations. The gardens to the south of the Tower were created at the same time as the repair and renovation work. In 1959 Tower and grounds were acquired by the present owners, the Charringtons. The connection of this family with the Charrington Brewery could not be established by Yours Truly.
The following Web Links give more details:
one,
two,
three.
The red brick and terracotta combination of the Tower (actually two towers)
fits well with the trees and the well-tended lawn.
Further to the right of the lawn, and ahead of the main entrance to the Tower,
the well-used steps come into view.
Part way up one of the towers, there is this south-facing view,
overlooking the Knot Garden.
The repair work following the 1884 Earthquake left the rooms in the Tower in a plain state. This chest looks "authentic" but its provenance was not apparent. A latter day copy of the portrait of - probably - Thomas Moore, adorns the said chest of draws.
The fireplace looks interesting, but furniture, furnishings, wood-burning stove and picture,
all look distinctly to be latter day.
"Loyaulement Servir."
"To serve Loyally"
The Crest of Henry, First Lord Marney.
The illustrious career of Henry, First Lord Marney
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With all these great deeds, Henry still managed,
for the time, to reach a respectable age of 66.
In modern parlance, one might suggest that
he may have experienced burn-out when he breathed his last.
Sic transit gloria mundi!
Layer Marney Tower
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This picture is dated 1860 and looks as if it were made from a steel engraving. Such engravings were first used for American dollar bills; steel plates lasted considerably longer than Copper plates, so gained popularity in Victorian times.
The Colchester earthquake of 1884 damaged the Tower, but demolition was avoided by the generosity of donors who were pivotal in arranging the repair work.
View from the top of one of the twin towers, towards St Mary's church and the countryside beyond.
In the entrance is a bath chair of uncertain vintage,
with a fold-back windscreen. Propulsion: human.
Purpose: Maybe at one time for the use of a valetudinarian.
Note the fold-back double windscreen, perhaps to protect
its occupant from cold winds coming from the Blackwater Estuary just to the South.
Grounds
Architecture, lawns, ponds, a barn and formal gardens. These are some aspects which one would associate with an historical country house. A stroll around the Grounds of Layer Marney Tower brings all these ingredients nicely together.
North view of St Mary's Church as seen in the Grounds.
The large pond just to the north-west of Layer Marney Tower.
The large barn, reminiscent of the one near Coggeshall.
In the barn there is a delivery cart for Charrington's Ales.
The surname of the owners of Layer Marney Towers is "Charrington", but the connection between the owners and Charrington's Ales could not be definitely established!
Another view of Layer Marney Tower from the south west.
Another view of Layer Marney Tower from the south.
Knott garden just on the east side of Layer Marney Tower.
Garden Griffin guarding a gateway.
Grade II listed gardens on the south side of Layer Marney Towers. These gardens were created at the time of the building repair work, after the Colchester Earthquake of 1884.
Another view of the gardens before we leave.
Return via Messing
On our return to Kelvedon Station, we first head north past the pond. In Essex, such ponds were often used as a water supply or to keep fish for the local Lord of the Manor. We aim for the village of Messing and on the way pass some Horse Chestnut trees in their spring glory. We skirt around Prested Hall and eventually cross the Kelvedon Bypass to reach the B1024 and Kelvedon Station.
Before we reach Messing, we pass this avenue of Horse Chestnuts.
The Horse Chestnut trees seem to be at their annual prime!
Finale
This twelve-mile walk is on the level and in the months from late spring, through summer to early autumn, there should be sufficient daylight for most able-bodied persons to complete this walk and have sufficient time to explore Layer Marney Tower and Church. Both walk and visit should not be rushed, but rather enjoyed. Exercise and a nice slice of Tudor history.
The two Henries, Henry VIII and Henry the First Lord Marney, still rule okay in the minds of the interested visitor!
Footnotes
Headers.
The decoration in the header and above each section header on the main page is derived from Clip Art supplied with earlier versions of Microsoft® Office®. I chose it since it resembles the stone urns in the grounds of the Layer Marney Tower.
Quick Access.
You can reach this page directly from your browser with "tinyurl.com/halloham".
Wilkinson's Jams.
Nearby, in Tiptree, and readily accessible by car, but more challenging on foot, is the centre of production of Wilkinson's world-famous Jams and Marmalades. The museum provides an insight into what goes on at Wilkinson's, and also gives a description of the now long gone "Crab & Winkle" railway line which used to be used to convey the produce to the outside world.